If you have a parrot or are planning to bring one home, one of the first things you need is a good cage. A cage isn’t just a place to keep your parrot—it’s your bird’s home, safe space, and playground all in one. Choosing the right cage and setting it up properly is very important for your parrot’s happiness and health.
In this guide, we’ll talk about how to choose a cage, where to place it, how to set it up, and how to keep it clean. Let’s get started.
1. Why the Cage Matters So Much
Parrots are intelligent, active, and social birds. In the wild, they have the freedom to fly around, explore, and interact with their flock. At home, their cage is where they spend a big part of their day.
A good cage:
- Keeps them safe from dangers
- Gives them enough space to move
- Lets them rest peacefully
- Allows them to play and exercise
If the cage is too small, uncomfortable, or boring, your parrot might become sad, stressed, or even unhealthy.
2. Choosing the Right Cage Size
When it comes to cages, bigger is always better—as long as you have space in your home. Your parrot should be able to spread its wings fully in all directions without touching the bars. It should also be able to climb, hop, and move around easily.
Here’s a simple size guide:
- Small parrots (budgies, lovebirds, parrotlets): Minimum 18x18x18 inches
- Medium parrots (cockatiels, conures, ringnecks): Minimum 24x24x24 inches
- Large parrots (African greys, amazons, macaws): Minimum 36x36x48 inches or bigger
Tip: Even if your parrot is small, giving it a bigger cage will make it happier.
3. Bar Spacing – Very Important for Safety
The space between the bars is called bar spacing. This matters because if the gaps are too wide, your parrot could get its head stuck, which is dangerous.
- Small parrots: Bar spacing around ½ inch (1.2 cm)
- Medium parrots: Around ¾ inch (1.9 cm)
- Large parrots: Around 1 inch to 1.5 inches (2.5–3.8 cm)
Always choose the right spacing for your bird’s size.
4. Cage Shape – What Works Best
You’ll find round cages, tall cages, wide cages, and all kinds of designs. But for parrots, wide rectangular cages are usually best.
Why? Because parrots like to move side to side and have more horizontal flying space. Tall, narrow cages may look nice but don’t give them enough usable room.
5. Material and Strength
Parrots have strong beaks, especially larger ones. They can bend or even break weak metal bars.
Look for cages made from:
- Stainless steel (best choice – strong, rust-free, safe)
- Powder-coated metal (more affordable but still safe)
Avoid cages with cheap paint or zinc coating because they can be toxic if chewed.
6. Where to Place the Cage
Your parrot’s cage location affects how happy and comfortable it feels.
A good spot should be:
- In a lively area so your parrot can see and hear family members
- Away from direct sunlight (overheating can harm your bird)
- Away from drafts, fans, or air conditioners
- Not in the kitchen (cooking fumes and Teflon pans can be deadly for birds)
- Near a wall for one side—this makes parrots feel secure
7. Perches – More Than Just Sticks
Perches are where your parrot rests, plays, and even sleeps. They help keep their feet healthy. Use different types and sizes:
- Natural wood branches are the best
- Rope perches for comfort
- Avoid sandpaper perches—they can hurt your parrot’s feet
Place perches at different heights, but don’t put them directly over food or water bowls (droppings can fall in).
8. Toys – For Fun and Mental Health
Parrots are smart and get bored easily. Without toys, they might start chewing cage bars or pulling out feathers.
Give them:
- Chewing toys (wood, cardboard)
- Foraging toys (hide treats inside)
- Bells and swings
- Ropes and ladders
Rotate toys regularly so your bird doesn’t get bored.
9. Food and Water Bowls
Every cage needs safe, easy-to-clean bowls for food and water. Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are best because they don’t break easily and are safe for birds. Wash and refill them daily.
10. Keeping the Cage Clean
A dirty cage can lead to sickness. Here’s a simple cleaning routine:
- Daily: Change water, remove leftover food, clean droppings from perches and bowls
- Weekly: Wash perches, toys, and cage bars with warm water and bird-safe soap
- Monthly: Deep clean the cage, remove rust, replace any broken toys or perches
Never use strong chemicals like bleach near your parrot.
11. Letting Your Parrot Out
Even the best cage can’t replace flying and exploring. If it’s safe, let your parrot out for a few hours every day in a bird-proofed room. Close windows and doors, turn off ceiling fans, and keep other pets away.
12. Travel and Sleep Cages
Sometimes you’ll need a smaller travel cage for vet visits or trips. Also, some owners use a separate small cage in a quiet room for sleeping, which helps parrots rest without disturbance.
13. Signs the Cage Is Not Right
If your parrot:
- Seems stressed or restless
- Screams more than usual
- Starts feather plucking
- Is inactive or depressed
…it might mean the cage is too small, in the wrong location, or missing enrichment like toys and perches.
14. A Cage Is a Home – Not a Prison
Your parrot’s cage should be a place it loves, not just a space where it’s locked away. Keep it full of things your bird enjoys, interact with your parrot often, and make sure it feels part of your family life.
15. Quick Checklist Before Buying
- Right size for your bird
- Correct bar spacing
- Safe, non-toxic materials
- Easy to clean
- Good door size for easy access
- Room for perches, toys, and bowls
- Strong enough to handle chewing
Final Thought:
A good parrot cage is more than just metal bars—it’s a safe, happy world for your bird. Choose it carefully, set it up with love, and keep it clean. Your parrot will reward you with affection, playful moments, and cheerful chatter for years to come.